Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Tools of the Trade with Chad Clark

We meet again, this time it's our anniversary! And you may think I forgot to get a gift, and honestly, I did, but I am here to make it up to you with some more salon friendly advice that can save you time and money. What a better gift than the gift that keeps on giving, KNOWLEDGE. So, Happy Anniversary Trends Magazine, and let's keep on bringing Visalia the best magazine we can. Let's get rockin'!

In this edition, we are going to talk about the tools of the trade. No, not the scissor and combs, but the heat tools that take our hair from straight to curl, or from flat to phat! Right now, there is an over-abundance of tools available out there from the drugstore, to Target, to your professional brands, and it can be a little overwhelming trying to decide what tools are right for you. Should I get a ceramic iron, or copper plates? Is an ionic blowdryer any different than a regular blowdryer? And how about the wet-to-dry irons……Yikes!!! We are going to examine some of these questions, and take a look at new technologies that are providing the healthy, shiny, more long-lasting look that we all love.

Lets start off on talking about what works. A lot of us have heard of the word "ionic". It is being placed on everything from blowdryers, to smoothing irons. Even round brushes are being coated with this new technology. To simplify the scientific side, lets say this: Ionic technologies send out charges to help dry the hair from the inside out, giving a faster blowdry and, as an end result, more shine. It is a great technology because less heat equals healthier hair.

Most of the tools that utilize this ionic technology also involve ceramics. Years ago, heating tools were made out of metals that could retain heat and heat quickly. Aluminum and copper were most commonly used, but these metals tend to be rather unstable. They have been known for heating at uneven rates, easily burning hair, and in extreme cases (blondes especially) leaving a deposit of tinge from the porous metals in the hair. Ceramic was introduced to styling tools because it was discovered to be a more reliable and consistent heat source, and softer on hair. Most professional irons, round brushes, blowdryers, and styling irons have ceramic cores.

You may be asking, how do I know if my styling tool is really ceramic or ionic? Well the first place I go when I need to ask a question about a car is a mechanic. With that concept in mind, for recommendations on a quality hair styling tool, it only makes sense to visit your hairstylist. As professionals, we are always out there trying new tools, comparing ideas and experiences with other hairstylists, and constantly trying to find out what works. If your stylist isn't confident in a recommendation, then please, come see me… just kidding, but seriously I would love to help. Most styling tools will boast their technologies right on the box. When trying to find that perfect tool, remember that lower prices usually means lower quality. If that iron was on sale at Target or Longs for $19.95, you're going to get a product that is as good as it can be for that price. And that is not saying much. Professional tools come reasonably priced, and any reputable styling tool should come with a lifetime warranty. Remember, it is an investment. Fill out and send in those warranty cards. They only take a few seconds to fill out and are definitely worth the time if a challenge arises.

Thus far, we have decided that styling tools with ceramic and ionic technology are smart investments. I recommend the New Express Ion Dry V.1 from Paul Mitchell. It is amazingly lightweight, takes advantage of the silicone ionic infused technology, and a cool shot button that is a one-touch "lock and load" switch. When it comes to smoothing or curling, I always go for my Express Ion Style also from Paul Mitchell. It has a straight swivel cord to assist in those long, beach curls and a controlled heating element that goes up to 400 degrees in as little as 6-10 seconds. To top it all off, it has two, silicone ionic infused strips on the top plate that gives you that added shine - love it! You can take your hair from Hendrix to BeyoncÈ without working up a sweat. For more info, check out your local Paul Mitchell Salon.

Now that we know what we like, let us talk about what we NEED to stay away from. Technology is constantly getting better, and with the change of times, some old habits do die hard. Well, I hope we can put a few things to rest, as they will not be missed. First, wet-to-dry: This is the worst possible thing you can do to your hair. Taking the hair from such extremes while "steaming out" moisture can and will actually create more dryness than anything else. The cuticle of the hair is delicate, and with such an invasive process, the hair is often left burnt, dry and sad. The steam effect does NOT moisturize - sorry, but it is true.

I believe we should also do away with the copper-plated HotTools brand. I still see them in drugstores to this day. After using them, people are left wondering why their hair is dry and their ends are broken. The reason for this is because copper plates do not hold heat evenly. This can cause hot pockets on the iron, which will expose some parts of your hair to more heat than others causing major damage. Another problem found with HotTools is that it leaves natural and platinum blonde hair with a brassy hue caused by the copper deposits left behind after the porous metal is heated.

Aluminum is another one we've got to throw away. It is often found in round brushes and other styling rollers. As with copper plates, it heats unevenly, causes drying of the hair…, just bad, bad, bad.

Now we know what to look for, what to stay away from, and most importantly, the reason behind it. With that, let us lighten it up a bit and get our hands in some hair.

We are going to create a quick beach curl with our smoothing iron.

Begin by applying your styling product of choice. A styling foam with a bit of a root lifter is a great base. Power dry with your fingers or use a brush for more control. Once dry, begin taking sections approximately 1-inch in width and comb through each section once to detangle using a brush.

Next, using your smoothing iron, point the end of your iron down, pressing the section with the iron, starting at the base.

Slide iron out slightly while rotating your iron one full rotation forward, or backward to change the curl direction. Once rotation is complete, hold the loose end in your fingertips and slowly slide the iron to the ends without rotating, allowing hair to curl around the iron as you pull out. The slower you go the tighter the curl.

Repeat the technique until desired level of curl and body are reached. Finish with your favorite hairspray and away you go!

We really covered a lot today. Please keep this one handy. Share it with a. friend! From my hands to your hair, I am Chad Clark. See you Downtown Visalia

Email your beauty wows and woes to me at cuttingedgeofstyle@hotmail.com

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